Coventry’s number one restaurant leaves city for new Leamington site as owner says ‘no regrets’

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Coventry’s number one restaurant leaves city for new Leamington site as owner says ‘no regrets’

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It was never the biggest restaurant in Coventry, with room to seat just 12 people, but for a sustained period it was officially the best.

Gourmet Food Kitchen punched way above its weight from its former home in FarGo Village, to the extent it made the top ten per cent of restaurants in the world, according to TripAdvisor.

A solo mission from chef Tony Davies, with the support of his wife Debra, attracted foodies from throughout the region and beyond to dine together at the intimate venue, tucking into a bespoke menu that rotated every single month.

However, the nine-year run at the Far Gosford Street venue – a run that began with the opening of a chocolate shop at the site – came to an end earlier this year.

For those fearing this unique eatery has been consigned to the great chopping board in the sky, fear not. Gourmet Food Kitchen has a new lease of life in nearby Leamington Spa, which began in early July.

Sat inside the quaint premises in Warwick Street, slightly larger than the previous dwelling but still retaining its trademark intimacy, Tony reflected on why he packed up his knives and made the short journey southeast.

“I needed to be based somewhere busier,” he said. “It was very quiet in the days and I just need more footfall in the day. The cost of living has killed me in the evenings, and there is more of a food scene in Leamington as well.

“I had been looking for a few years and nothing had come up. At one stage, we were going to move to Hereford. But things changed, I live in Leamington, this place came up and I thought, let’s just go for it.”

It’s a one-man-band operation, for the time being, at his new location. But there was spring in Tony’s step and optimism in his words as he reflected on a fast start in Leamington Spa, while also looking back fondly on the good times in Coventry.

“At one stage you couldn’t get into my place at FarGo Village, especially after the article went on CoventryLive!” said Tony, referring to the ‘A hidden gem: Our verdict on gourmet nights at Cov’s best-rated restaurant’ published in February 2020.

“I was fully booked for six months, but the cost of living had taken its toll. I just like being in Leamington. I have only been open a week and I have had a good week. Considering I only opened last Wednesday, I was so busy on Friday and Saturday, it was unbelievable.

“There is a really strong foodie scene in Leamington Spa, every other shop seems to be a restaurant or café of some description – but I am confident we can stand out from the crowd.”

Why? How can this one-man band compete with so many established independents with loyal customer bases, mixed in with big chain alternatives, too?

“Everything made from scratch. I cure my own salmon, salt my own salt beef,” Tony explained. “I don’t want to speak about other peoples’ bagels, but I pack a lot into mine. I do a burger bagel and a lamb kofta bagel and they have all been very popular.

“Especially the smoked salmon. I got six sides of salmon in last week to smoke and I have had to get another six sides in, and I have only been open four days!”

Gourmet Food Kitchen is open 8am until 4pm Tuesday to Saturday, but that’s only half of the story. On Friday and Saturday evenings, the Gourmet Nights run from 7pm until 10.30pm.

Diners sit in the same room in which Tony cooks and then serves the food. He’s on hand to answer questions about dishes and provide context to the plates he has prepared.

August’s menu is as follows:

• Gazpacho

• Crispy Duck Egg, Mushroom, Chervil and Tarragon Beurre Blanc

• Home Smoked Haddock, Spinach, Bacon Fat Popcorn and Haddock Foam

• Red Wine Granite

• Creedy Carver Chicken Breast, Confit Leg and Pommery Mustard Cromesquis, Curly Kale, Cider Fondant

• Strawberry Three Ways

• Coffee & Petit Fours

And there’s one further key element that makes his Gourmet Nights appealing to diners – you can bring your own drinks.

“That really helps bring the cost down for people,” Tony smiled. “I think that really helps keep the cost down as people know their spend on the night will not escalate like it can in some other restaurants.

“It is a very unique experience, it is a very social experience. It is good food in a very relaxed atmosphere.

“There’s no looking back for me. We had a good run in Coventry, and I have no regrets. But I am looking forward to this new chapter in Leamington.”

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